Men's
Round collar robe shirt(圆领衣)
Tang Dynasty
Due to the influence of the Hu people, the Tang round collar robe was transformed into one of the Han costumes. It was mainly used for travelling or hunting, which was more convenient for daily life. Round collar robe shirts are divided into Gui robe and Lan robe. As shown in the figure below, the left is Gui robe, the right is Lan robe.
Gui robe: The waist is split on both sides, not connected to the waist. Wear them as casual clothes.
Lan robe: The bottom edge of the robe is connected with Lan. As a regular service, more formal than Gui robe.
Song Dynasty
The round collar robe of Song Dynasty came from the round collar robe of Tang Dynasty, and gradually became the dress to show the identity. It is different from Tang round collar robe in large quantity, sleeve and collar.
Beizi(褙子)
Song Dynasty. It's different from women. The men's Beizi are casual clothes, and the collar can be used as a pair of lapels. They are more often worn in the form of "shallow cross collar". The width of the sleeves is variable. They are basically big sleeves. The sleeve length can reach back elbow or over elbow.
Dachang(大氅)
Song Dynasty. There are rims around Dachang, which belongs to the regular clothing. In principle, Dachang is matched with the clothes (shape), but now it's changed personal preference.
Xingyi(行衣)
Song Dynasty. Full edge cross collar sweater. Xingyi is the clothes you wear when you travel.
Zhishen(直身)
Ming Dynasty. Zhishen, also known as Changyi, Haiqing. Its structural features are very similar to “Taoist robes”. Ming Dynasty Liu Ruoyu “Zhuozhongzhi” records: “Zhishen, the system is the same as the Taoist robe, but hem swing in outside.” Zhishen is one of the basic styles of men’s clothing in the Ming dynasty, widely used as the daily formal dress of the scholars and people, but also common in the emperors and kings of the dragon robe and official uniforms of civil and military officials.
Taoist robes(道袍)
Taoist robes are usually referred to as one of the men’s traditional Chinese costumes, also popular among the Ming Dynasty scholar’s costumes. If there is any style of men’s Hanfu that can be versatile, the robe must be the obvious choice. As you can see from its appearance, it is a very stylish Chinese man costume. Although Taoist robes were popular among all classes of people, they did not apply to the needs of ordinary people in their work, and were only popular among people with a certain economic ability and social statuses, such as scholars and scholars.
Zhiduo(直裰)
In the middle of the Ming Dynasty, the phenomenon of “Zhiduo” being called “Taoist robes” in informal settings was documented, which shows the changing trend of clothing. “Zhiduo” in the Ming dynasty usually referred to the long clothes worn by the people, servants, and monks. When wearing a Zhiduo, can wear a silk waistband or belt, with a petticoat and underwear, with a small hat, shoes, and boots.
Tieli(贴里)
Tieli is usually worn under a round-necked robe and Dahu (褡护, a type of clothing that belongs to the Banbi), which makes the wide hem of the robe slightly outward and dignified. Tieli is the Mongolian word for the robe and is an import from the Yuan Dynasty. After being inherited by the Ming Dynasty, the garment was lengthened, and the overall structure closer to Shenyi system of the Hanfu, and integrated the Han “orthodox” rituals, and later became the most common ancient Chinese robes, and is a common style of the Ming Dynasty officials (up to the Feiyu suit, down to military uniforms).
Flying fish suit(飞鱼服)
Flying fish suit is a kind of robe with a flying fish pattern (a kind of pattern). In the Ming Dynasty, officials were allowed to wear flying fish suit for banquet only when they had a certain grade. Later, it gradually developed into official clothes, mainly worn by Jinyi Wei (royal guards). Flying fish suit is also one of the representatives of male traditional Chinese clothing. People like the exquisite design very much.
Yisan(曳撒)
Yisan is one of the common ancient Chinese robes in the Ming Dynasty, and the emperor also used Yisan in daily casual wear. Yisan or from the Yuan Dynasty “Zhisunfu ( Mongolian call jisun)”.
Similar to Tieli, the common styles of Yisan are mostly narrow sleeves or pipa sleeves, which are suitable for daily use, while those decorated with ornate patterns or Buzi can also be used as regular clothes for festivals or small ceremonial occasions. Concepts such as “Feiyu suits”, are used in the same.
When wearing Yisan, it can be worn with the Taohuan, leather belt, and Luandai(a broad and long fabric decorated with various patterns and decorated with pendant spikes at both ends, which was often given as an accessory for Yisan in the Ming Dynasty and worn as a ceremonial costume for ceremonial occasions.).
